Unfiltered, Unfined

A picky eater?

From: Trish

Subject: I’m Cooking Just About Everything For Christmas Dinner, What Wines Should I Buy?

My son and his young family are coming home for Christmas, but his wife is vegetarian and my husband only eats meat and potatoes. My solution is to make both steak and vegetarian main courses.

Everyone in our family loves red wine, and I don’t want to go broke buying different bottles for each entree. What should I do?

Hi Trish:

Your holiday plans sound wonderful, and with the wide variety of diets out there I’m sure that many people are in a similar situation. But take heart, I have a solution to your dilemma - red Zinfandel.

Young grapes in Italy

Although often referred to as “America’s grape,” Zinfandel isn’t native to the New World. It is in fact Vitis Vinifera (a European species that produces almost all commercially grown wine), although where on the subcontinent it came from is still somewhat of a mystery. According to many wine historians and geneticists, the most likely candidate for Zin’s origin come from Italy, where closely-related Primitivo thrives.

Regardless of nativity, it is clearly in California that Zinfandel has achieved its greatest variety of expression. Because Zinfandel continues to mature throughout the long growing season, Cali versions have characteristics all over the red wine map, from delicate, restrained berry elements to full-bore meatiness. Some even combine a bright raspberry nose with black plums and mushrooms on the palate, and most have sufficient acidity to pair well with a variety of dishes.

This great variety of food-friendly smells and flavors leads to the conclusion that, if everyone at your celebrations really likes red wine with their meals, then Zinfandel is the juice for you.

Lighter food

Lighter foods (think vegetarian, but also fowl and even fish) match most successfully with lighter wines. So in this case start with the Kendall-Jackson Zinfandel Vintner’s Reserve Mendocino. I usually find K-J wines, although often produced in large quantities, to be very consistent and varietally correct. This Zin is no exception, showing white pepper and red raspberry on the nose, followed by plump boysenberry, blueberry and a hint of bacon on the well-defined finish.

Another winner is the slightly creamy Murphy-Goode Zinfandel Sonoma County Liar’s Dice. Soft and smooth, this boasts well-defined black cherry, coffee and hazelnut elements that play well together.

With slightly heavier entrees, I’d also endorse the spicy Ironstone Reserve Zinfandel Old Vines Deaver Vineyard Amador County. Cinnamon and allspice meet red cherry and raspberry on the vanilla-tinged palate. It’s very well made, and not at all expensive.

Heavier foods

As we move up the main course intensity scale (wild mushrooms, birds, veal, pork and other gentle meats), the wine must ratchet up to meet food’s challenge. In these situations I’d recommend the Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel Napa, with intense sour cherry, cola, cinnamon and raspberry cream aromas and long, lush tangerine and vanilla on the clean finish. This is quite an expressive wine, and definitely worth the higher price.

Another top-drawer Zinfandel is the Seghesio Zinfandel Alexander Valley Home Ranch. Though jammy and fun, this also shows well-focused aromas of black cherry and licorice combined with purple plum, cracked black pepper and coffee flavors. It finishes with supple, ripe tannins that are approachable now, but will also surely be better in a few years.

For truly serious cuts of meat, however, an ordinary Zinfandel just won’t do. In such situations I call out the big guns, in this case the Turley Vineyards Zinfandel Old Vines. Surprisingly ethereal on the nose, with a hint of gamey leaf and currant, this turns thick and fun in the mouth, with cherry jam and blackberry leading to mushrooms and cedar on the finish. Just perfect for that rib roast you’ve been planning all year.

Finally, if you’re one of those wine buffs who love to stump their friends with bottles served blind, throw in one of Zinfandel’s European ancestors and see if anyone gets it right. Try the earthy, tannic Castello Monaci Primitivo Piluna, with a nose of mushrooms, root beer and caramel and a taste of ash and sweet red raspberries on the long, deep finish.

While one can spend a small fortune trying to find the perfect wines for holiday meals, in this case matching typical festive food is no great trick or expense, especially if red juice is the preferred libation. Keep some inexpensive red Zinfandel handy for such situations. You’ll be glad you did.

Recommended:

Red

Kendall-Jackson Zinfandel Vintner’s Reserve Mendocino 2007 (California, U.S.A.) $14

Murphy-Goode Zinfandel Sonoma County Liar’s Dice 2007 (California, U.S.A.) $15

Ironstone Reserve Zinfandel Old Vine Deaver Vineyard Amador County 2007 (California, U.S.A.) $28

Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel Napa Valley 2007 (California, U.S.A.) $30

Seghesio Zinfandel Alexander Valley Home Ranch 2007 (California, U.S.A.) $36

Turley Zinfandel Old Vines 2007 (California, U.S.A.) $35

Castello Monaci Primitivo Piluna 2007 (Tuscany, Italy) $14